Difference between revisions of "Defender"

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Released - 1981
 
Released - 1981
  
−
===Upright Cabinet===
+
==Upright Cabinet==
−
* '''Overall Dimensions/Weight (Useful for shipping or getting down stairs)
+
* '''Overall Dimensions/Weight
−
===Cocktail Cabinet===
+
[[File:Williams Flyer.jpg|right|300px]]
−
* '''Overall Dimensions/Weight (Useful for shipping or getting down stairs)
+
{| class="wikitable"
 +
! style="text-align: center; font-weight:bold;" | Height
 +
! style="text-align: center; font-weight:bold;" | Width
 +
! style="text-align: center; font-weight:bold;" | Depth
 +
! style="text-align: center; font-weight:bold;" | Weight
 +
|-
 +
| style="text-align: center;" | 72"
 +
| style="text-align: center;" | 26"
 +
| style="text-align: center;" | 32.5" (32 1/2")
 +
| style="text-align: center;" | 265 lbs.
 +
|}
 +
* '''Marquee Information
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
! style="text-align: center; font-weight:bold;" | Height
 +
! style="text-align: center; font-weight:bold;" | Width
 +
|-
 +
| style="text-align: center;" | 7.75" (7 3/4")
 +
| style="text-align: center;" | 24.375" (24 3/8")
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
[[File:Defender_marquee_24.5x7.75.jpg|thumb|none]]
 +
* '''Control Panel Information
 +
*;Joystick:
 +
**[[2-Way_Leaf_Switch_Joystick]] (up, down)
 +
*;Buttons:
 +
**5 Fire-Thrust-Reverse-Hyperspace-Smart Bomb
 +
 
 +
==Cocktail Cabinet==
 +
* '''Overall Dimensions/Weight
 
==Documentation==
 
==Documentation==
−
* '''Schematics Stored Here
+
'''Drawings/Schematics'''
 +
<div class="toccolours mw-collapsible mw-collapsed" style="width:500px; overflow:auto;">
 +
<div style="font-weight:bold;line-height:1.6;">Early Drawings (no content yet)</div>
 +
<div class="mw-collapsible-content">
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/01%20-%2016P-301-101%20R-T%20April%201981%20-%20Later%20Game%20-%20Cover%20-8x11.pdf Front Cover]
 +
 
 +
 
 +
</div></div>
 +
 
 +
<div class="toccolours mw-collapsible mw-collapsed" style="width:500px; overflow:auto;">
 +
<div style="font-weight:bold;line-height:1.6;">Later Drawings</div>
 +
<div class="mw-collapsible-content">
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/01%20-%2016P-301-101%20R-T%20April%201981%20-%20Later%20Game%20-%20Cover%20-8x11.pdf Front Cover]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/02%20-%20Table%20Of%20Contents%20-%208x11.pdf Table Of Contents]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/03-1%20-%20Board%20Layouts%20-%20All%20-%2011x17.pdf Board Layout Diagram 1]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/03-2%20-Board%20Layouts%20-%208x11.pdf Board Layout Diagram 2]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/04-1%20MPU%20Layout%20-%20R8570%20-%2011x17.pdf MPU Layout Diagram 1 (R8570)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/04-2%20-MPU%20Components%20-%208x11.pdf MPU Layout Diagram 2 (Parts List) (R8570)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/05%20-%20MPU%20Logic%20Diagram%20-%20Page%201%20-%20R8570%20-%2011x17.pdf MPU Schematic/Logic 1 (R8570)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/06%20-%20MPU%20Logic%20Diagram%20-%20Page%202%20-%20R8570%20-%2011x17.pdf MPU Schematic/Logic 2 (R8570)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/07%20-%20Interface%20-%20Widget%20Board%20-%20C8573%20-%2011x17.pdf Interface/Widget Board (C8573)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/08%20-%20ROM%20Board%20Layout%20-%20D8572%20-%2011x17.pdf ROM Board Layout Diagram (D8572)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/09%20-%20ROM%20Board%20Logic%20Diagram%20-%20D8572%20-%2011x17.pdf ROM Board Schematic (D8572)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/10%20-%20Power%20Supply%20Drawing%20-%20D8359%20-%2011x17.pdf Power Supply Diagram (D8359)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/11%20-%20Power%20Supply%20Logic%20Diagram%20-%20D8359%20-%2011x17.pdf Power Supply Schematic (D8359)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/12%20-%20Cabinet%20Power%20Wiring%20Diagram%20-%2011x17.pdf Cabinet Power Schematic]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/13%20-%20Power%20Panel%20Drawing%20-%20D8373%20-%2011x17.pdf Power Board Diagram (D8373)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/14%20-%20Sound%20Board%20Layout%20-%20Early%20-%20D8121%20-%2011x17.pdf Early Sound Board Diagram/Layout (D8121)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/15%20-%20Sound%20Board%20Logic%20Diagram%20-%20Early%20-%20D8121%20-%2011x17.pdf Early Sound Board Schematic (D8121)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/16%20-%20Sound%20Board%20Layout%20-%20Later%20-%20D8224%20-%2011x17.pdf Later Sound Board Diagram/Layout (D8224)]
 +
*[http://williamsarcades.com/Williams%20Files/Defender/Documents/Drawings/Later/17%20-%20Sound%20Board%20Logic%20Diagram%20-%20Later%20-%20D8224%20-%2011x17.pdf Later Sound Board Schematic (D8224)]
 +
</div></div>
 +
 
 
* '''Manual Stored Here
 
* '''Manual Stored Here
 
* '''Parts Catalog Stored Here
 
* '''Parts Catalog Stored Here
  
−
# Brewing the Beer - The pale malt [[Extract|extract]] and [[Hops|hops]] are boiled together with water for about an hour to sterilize the extract and release the bittering qualities of the hops.  Frequently grains are steeped in the mixture prior to the boil to add additional color and flavor complexity.
+
==Boards==
−
# Cooling and Fermenting - The hot mixture (called [[wort]]) is cooled to room temperature and siphoned or transferred to a fermentor where it is combined with additional water to achieve the desired 5 gallon batch size.  Once the mixture drops to room temperature, yeast is added to start the fermentation process.  Cleanliness and sterilization are very important since the wort can be easily infected by bacteria while in this state.  An airlock is used to keep the fermentor sealed during fermentation.  Your beer will ferment for 1-2 weeks.
+
===ROM Board===
−
# Priming and Bottling - Once the beer is fully fermented, it is usually siphoned to another container to prepare for bottling.  Here priming sugars such as corn sugar are mixed with the beer, and then it is siphoned into bottles and each bottle is capped with a bottle capping device.
+
===Interface Board (I/O, Widget)===
−
# Aging - Once the beer has been bottled it needs to age for 2-6 weeks.  During aging the yeast will ferment the remaining sugar you added and create carbon dioxide.  This carbon dioxide will naturally carbonate your beer so it is nice and bubbly.  In addition, undesirable sediments such as excess yeast and proteins will drop out of the beer during aging and this will enhance the flavor of your beer. In some cases it may take several months to reach peak flavor, though it is usually drinkable after a month.
+
<div class="toccolours mw-collapsible mw-collapsed" style="width:500px; overflow:auto;">
−
# Drinking - When the beer is properly aged - just put the bottles in the fridge and enjoy!  There's nothing quite like a great beer that you made yourself.
+
<div style="font-weight:bold;line-height:1.6;">Click here for more information..</div>
−
 
+
<div class="mw-collapsible-content">
−
==Extract Brewing==
 
−
Brew day is my favorite part of the process.  The smell of sweet wort bubbling away stirs something primeval in the human psyche.  Since we are brewing a relatively simple extract beer, there is not much to set up.  You need a clean pot large enough to hold 2 gallons of water plus the two cans (6 lbs of extract) and boil it (I recommend a 4-5 gallon pot if you can find one).  Put 2 gallons of water into your pot and begin to heat it over your stove.  Once the water has heated up a bit, open your cans of extract and slowly start mixing them into the warm water.  The malt extract will have the consistency of heavy syrup, and you may need some hot water to get it all out of the sides of the can.  The combined water and extract mixture is called "wort."
 
  
−
As you are adding the malt extract to your wort, you need to continuously mix it.  If you do not mix it, the extract syrup will have a tendency to settle at the bottom of your pot where it will heat and caramelize, leaving a hardened caramel mess at the bottom of your pot. This carmelization can also alter the color and flavor of your beer, so it is important to mix well while heating.
+
Description: The interface board is used to provide input ports that allow the physical connection of user inputs from the Control Panel. This board uses a 6821 PIA (peripheral interface adapter) that digitizes all inputs and provides the switch state to the MPU board when requested.
−
Once you have all of your extract mixed in, the next step is to bring your wort to a boil.  This is best done slowly, as your wort will tend to bubble up a lot when it first starts to boil.  The water you used for your brew has a lot of air in it, and these small air bubbles will be released as it comes to a boil creating foaming and a high potential for a boil-over.  The best way to avoid a boil-over it to turn the heat down a bit as the wort just begins to boil, and then very carefully manage the heat during the first 15 minutes of the boil until you have a steady boil with minimal foaming.  Also, do NOT use a cover on your pot!  While a covered pot will  come to a boil quicker, the first time you open the pot it will boil over immediately - making a huge mess of your stove.  
 
  
−
Once you achieve a steady boil it is time to add the hops.  Weigh the proper amount and drop it in the hot wort.  Some brewers use a mesh hops bag to reduce the mess later, but if you can cool your beer quickly most of the hops will drop out after the boil.    Stir occasionally during the boil to reduce the chance of extract settling to the bottom and carmelizing.  I recommend you boil for 60 minutes.  Boil time will affect your hop utilization and beer bitterness, but this particular batch is sized for a 60 minute boil time.
+
*; Jumpers
 +
** W1
 +
*** Is used to identify to the system if the game is an Upright or Cocktail
 +
*** W1 Removed - Cocktail Game - Screen Flip and unique controls (+5v Pull-Up resistor to PIA)
 +
*** W1 Installed - Upright Game - 2 Players share same controls, no screen flip (Connects PIA input to Ground)
 +
*** Notes: Green Rom Version has no support for Cocktail Mode
 +
** W2
 +
*** Is used to allow the program to enable or disable the Multiplexers (Muxers)
 +
*** W2 should always be connected there is no reason to remove jumper
  
−
==Cool and Ferment==
+
*; Connections
−
Once your boil has finished, you want to cool the hot wort to room temperature as quickly as possible to reduce the chance of infection. Many beginning brewers immerse their pot in a cold ice bath.  Adding very cold water to the wort to bring it up to your target batch size (usually 5 gallons) will also help. More advanced brewers will use a chiller such as an immersion coil that runs cold water through a coil of copper tubing to quickly cool the beer. If needed, add water to the wort when you transfer it to your fermentor to achieve the target volume of 5 gallons.
+
** Upright
 +
*** 3J2 Connector (Upper - Furthest from ribbon cable - Pin 1 is lowest - 10 Pin Molex PCB Headers - .156")
 +
**#'Fire' Button - (ORG-BRN) - PIA Pin 2
 +
**#'Thrust' Button - (ORG-RED) - PIA Pin 3
 +
**#'Smart Bomb' Button - (ORG) - PIA Pin 4
 +
**#'Hyperspace' Button - (ORG-YEL) - PIA Pin 5
 +
**#'2-Player Start' Button - (ORG-GRN) - PIA Pin 6
 +
**#'1-Player Start' Button - (ORG-BLU) - PIA Pin 7
 +
**#'Reverse' Button - (ORG-VIO) - PIA Pin 8
 +
**#'Down' Joystick - (ORG-GRY) - PIA Pin 9
 +
**#Key (Pin Removed)
 +
**#NC (No Connection)
 +
***3J3 Connector (Lower closest to ribbon cable - Pin 1 is lowest - 10 Pin Molex PCB Headers - .156")
 +
**#Up' Joystick - (ORG-WHT) - PIA Pin 10
 +
**#NC (No Connection)
 +
**#NC
 +
**#NC
 +
**#NC
 +
**#Key - Pin Removed
 +
**#NC
 +
**#NC
 +
**#NC
 +
**#Ground - (ORG-BLK) - Common to all switches and joystick
 +
** Cocktail
 +
***3J2 Connector (Upper - Furthest from ribbon cable - Pin 1 is lowest - 10 Pin Molex PCB Headers - .156")
 +
**#'Fire' Button (P1) - (ORG-BRN) - PIA Pin 2
 +
**#'Thrust' Button (P1) - (ORG-RED) - PIA Pin 3
 +
**#'Smart Bomb' Button (P1) - (ORG) - PIA Pin 4
 +
**#'Hyperspace' Button (P1) - (ORG-YEL) - PIA Pin 5
 +
**#'2-Player Start' Button (P1) - (ORG-GRN) - PIA Pin 6
 +
**#'1-Player Start' Button (P1) - (ORG-BLU) - PIA Pin 7
 +
**#'Reverse' Button (P1) - (ORG-VIO) - PIA Pin 8
 +
**#'UP' Joystick (P1) - (ORG-GRY) - PIA Pin 9
 +
**#Key (Pin Removed)
 +
**#Ground - (RED-BLK) - Common to all P2 Controls)
 +
***3J3 Connector (Lower closest to ribbon cable - Pin 1 is lowest - 10 Pin Molex PCB Headers - .156")
 +
**#Down' Joystick (P1)- (ORG-WHT) - PIA Pin 10
 +
**#'Up' Joystick (P2) - (RED-BRN)
 +
**#'Thrust' Button (P2) - (RED)
 +
**#'Smart Bomb' Button (P2) - (RED-ORG)
 +
**#'Hyperspace' Button (P2) - (RED-YEL)
 +
**#Key - Pin Removed
 +
**#'Reverse' Button (P2) - (RED-VIO)
 +
**#'Fire' Button (P2) - (RED-GRY)
 +
**#'Down' Joystick (P2) - (RED-WHT)
 +
**#Ground - (ORG-BLK) - (Common to all P1 Controls)
  
−
The wort at this stage is very vulnerable to infection so you need to make sure that your fermentor, airlock, siphon tubes and anything else that touches the wort or yeast are thoroughly sterilized.  I use a solution of 5 gallons of water and small amount of household bleach to sterilize my equipment.  However if you use bleach you must carefully rinse everything with hot water or you risk leaving your beer with a chlorine taste.
+
*;Ribbon Cable - Pinout
 +
*#D4 - PIA Pin 29
 +
*#NMI(NOT) - PIA No Connection
 +
*#D7 - PIA Pin 26
 +
*#FIRQ(NOT) - PIA No Connection
 +
*#D6 - PIA Pin 27
 +
*#RW (Read/Write) - PIA Pin 21
 +
*#D5 - PIA Pin 28
 +
*#Reset(NOT) - PIA Pin 34
 +
*#D2 - PIA Pin 31
 +
*#+5vdc (Power for board) - PIA Pin 20
 +
*#D1 - PIA Pin 32
 +
*#D0 - PIA Pin 33
 +
*#D3 - PIA Pin 30
 +
*#E(Enable) - PIA Pin 25
 +
*#PIA(NOT) - PIA Pin 23 via IC4(14049 Hex Inverter Pin 11 to 12)
 +
*#Ground - PIA Pin 6
 +
*#A0 - PIA Pin 36
 +
*#A1 - PIA Pin 35
 +
*#A2 - PIA Pin 24
 +
*#A3 - PIA Pin 22 via IC4(14049 Hex Inverter - Pin 9 to 10)
 +
</div></div>
  
−
Your wort must be fully cooled to room temperature (72 F or so) and siphoned or dumped into your fermentor before you add (pitch) your yeast.  Don't worry too much about all of the gunk (hops and proteins) in the wort - most of it will fall to the bottom during fermentation.  Pitching yeast in hot wort will probably kill it off, so wait until your wort has fully cooled before adding yeast.  I highly recommend the use of liquid yeast as it is far superior in quality to dry yeast.  Liquid yeast comes in either a plastic tube or smack pack.  The plastic tube type can be added directly to the wort.  The foil smack-packs require you to pop an internal pouch containing the yeast several hours before pitching it to allow the yeast to grow in a self contained starter.  Follow the instructions on your yeast pack to prepare it and then carefully add it to your fermentor.  Once the yeast has been added and mixed in, close the top, fit your airlock (which needs a little water in it) and set your beer in a dark cool place where the temperature is steady.
+
==Software==
  
−
Your airlock should begin bubbling within 12-36 hours, and continue fermenting for about a week.  If you see no bubbles from the airlock, check the fit on your plastic pail and airlock.  Often plastic fermentors have a poor seal on the lid that leaks.  The bubbles in the airlock are CO2 produced by the fermentation, and will slowly tail off as fermentation nears completion.  Assuming you have a good seal, the bubbles should slow to one every minute or two before you consider bottling.  As a minimum I would ferment for a week before considering bottling a beer.
+
'''High Score Table Initials Decoded:'''
  
−
==Priming and Bottling==
+
DRJ – Eugene Jarvis. Designer, programmer.
−
The final step before bottling your beer is called priming. Priming consists of mixing sugar in with the beer to promote fermentation after bottling.  A small amount of priming sugar will ferment and carbonate your beer.
 
  
−
Before you can prime and bottle, you again need to sterilize everything the beer will touch. Though your beer has fermented out, it still can be ruined by bacteria or by adding too much oxygen to it (i.e. don't splash it around).  Most brewers use a large plastic bucket or carboy to make it easy to mix the priming sugar in evenly.  Sterilize the bucket thoroughly, and also sterilize your siphoning equipment, tools and of course your bottles.  Make sure your bottles are clean of debris before sterilizing - use a bottle brush to remove any deposits.  Some people sterilize bottles by soaking them in a weak bleach solution and then rinsing well.  I've also had some success with sterilizing my bottles in the dishwasher, but you need to run it several times with no soap and hot water to avoid leaving a soap residue that will ruin the head retention on your beer.
+
SAM – Sam Dicker. Programmer.
  
−
Siphon the finished beer into your priming bucket, trying very hard not to splash it around or mix any air in with it. Add 2/3 cup of priming sugar (I recommend corn sugar) to your beer and very gently mix it in.  Next siphon the beer into your bottles using your bottle filler.  Be sure to leave at least an inch or more of empty space at the top of your bottle to aid in fermentation.  Put the caps on each bottle as you go and use your bottle capper to secure them.
+
LED – Larry DeMar. Programmer.
  
−
==Aging==
+
PGD – Paul Dussault. Programmer.
−
The most difficult part by far is waiting for your beer to come of age. While most beers are drinkable after a few weeks, the average homebrew reaches peak flavor anywhere from 8 weeks to 15 weeks after brewing.  Most homebrewers simply can't wait this long.  During the aging process your beer will carbonate and excess yeast, tannins and proteins that create off flavors will fall out of your beer and settle to the bottom of the bottle.  This will substantially improve your beer.  I personally recommend waiting about 3-4 weeks after bottling before sampling your first brew.
 
  
−
Store your bottles in a cool, dark place. Unless you are brewing a lager under temperature controlled conditions, do not store your beer in the refrigerator for the first two weeks.  Give it two weeks to fully carbonate at room temperature.  After the first two weeks, refrigerating the beer will help it improve more quickly because the tannins, yeast and protein will sediment faster at cold temperature.
+
CRB – Chuck Bleich. Hardware engineering.
  
−
==Drinking==
+
MRS – Mike Stroll. Head of Engineering at Williams.
−
The blessed day has finally arrived to sample your creation. During the aging process excess yeast, tannins and proteins will settle to the bottom of your bottle.  Get a clean glass, open your brew, and gently pour most of your beer into the glass leaving only the sediment and a small amount of beer in your bottle.  Don't worry if you take a little sediment into the glass - it won't hurt you though it may not improve the taste of your brew.  Smell the fresh beer, admire the frothy head, and then sip (don't guzzle) your first homebrew and enjoy!  As always, please drink responsibly.
 
  
−
==See Also==
+
SSR – Steve Ritchie. An engineer at Williams primarily involved in pinball, did not work directly on Defender.
−
*[[Processes|More on the Brewing Process]]
 
−
* [[Extract Brewing]]
 
−
* [[Tips for Better Beer]]
 
−
* [[Moving to All Grain]]
 
  
−
==External Links==
+
TMH – Tom Hart. Hardware engineer.
−
* [http://www.beersmith.com/blog BeerSmith Blog] - Weekly Home Brewing Articles
 
−
* [http://www.brewpoll.com BrewPoll Home Brewing News] - Social News Site on Brewing and Beer
 
−
* [http://www.howtobrew.com/ How to Brew by John Palmer]
 
−
* [http://www.brewium.com/ Introduction to Home Brewing DVD by Brewium]
 
−
* [http://breworganic.com/tips/virtual_class.htm Virtual Introduction to Brewing Class]
 
−
* [http://www.homebrewguide.info Home Brew Guide] - PDF Guide on Home Brewing + 640 Recipes
 
−
[[Category: processes]]
 
−
[[Category:Glossary]]
 
−
== Thank yous for tech ==
 
−
<gallery>
 
−
File:Heckert GNU.png|[[w:GNU|GNU's Not Unix]]..
 
−
File:Tux.png|.. but it has always helped [[w:Linux|Linux]] to be.
 
−
File:MediaWiki logo 1.png|Relying on [[Mediawiki]] to work towards the Consumerium goals since 2003.
 
−
Apache Feather Logo.svg|[[w:Apache HTTP Server|Apache HTTP Server]] has served Consumerium well for over 15 yrs. Consumium free social runs [[w:Nginx|Nginx]] a very nice copyleft web server.
 
−
File:Mariadb-seal-flat-browntext.png|Choice of RDBMS is [[w:MariaDB|MariaDB]], a fork back by the original people behind MySQL.
 
−
File:Debian-OpenLogo.svg|Consumerium has been relying on copyleft [[w:Debian|Debian]] GNU/Linux Stable-branch servers for over 10 years.
 
−
</gallery>
 

Latest revision as of 02:58, 17 February 2024

Released - 1981

Upright Cabinet

  • Overall Dimensions/Weight
Williams Flyer.jpg
Height Width Depth Weight
72" 26" 32.5" (32 1/2") 265 lbs.
  • Marquee Information
Height Width
7.75" (7 3/4") 24.375" (24 3/8")
Defender marquee 24.5x7.75.jpg

Cocktail Cabinet

  • Overall Dimensions/Weight

Documentation

Drawings/Schematics

Early Drawings (no content yet)


Later Drawings
  • Manual Stored Here
  • Parts Catalog Stored Here

Boards

ROM Board

Interface Board (I/O, Widget)

Click here for more information..

Description: The interface board is used to provide input ports that allow the physical connection of user inputs from the Control Panel. This board uses a 6821 PIA (peripheral interface adapter) that digitizes all inputs and provides the switch state to the MPU board when requested.

  • Jumpers
    • W1
      • Is used to identify to the system if the game is an Upright or Cocktail
      • W1 Removed - Cocktail Game - Screen Flip and unique controls (+5v Pull-Up resistor to PIA)
      • W1 Installed - Upright Game - 2 Players share same controls, no screen flip (Connects PIA input to Ground)
      • Notes: Green Rom Version has no support for Cocktail Mode
    • W2
      • Is used to allow the program to enable or disable the Multiplexers (Muxers)
      • W2 should always be connected there is no reason to remove jumper
  • Connections
    • Upright
      • 3J2 Connector (Upper - Furthest from ribbon cable - Pin 1 is lowest - 10 Pin Molex PCB Headers - .156")
      1. 'Fire' Button - (ORG-BRN) - PIA Pin 2
      2. 'Thrust' Button - (ORG-RED) - PIA Pin 3
      3. 'Smart Bomb' Button - (ORG) - PIA Pin 4
      4. 'Hyperspace' Button - (ORG-YEL) - PIA Pin 5
      5. '2-Player Start' Button - (ORG-GRN) - PIA Pin 6
      6. '1-Player Start' Button - (ORG-BLU) - PIA Pin 7
      7. 'Reverse' Button - (ORG-VIO) - PIA Pin 8
      8. 'Down' Joystick - (ORG-GRY) - PIA Pin 9
      9. Key (Pin Removed)
      10. NC (No Connection)
      • 3J3 Connector (Lower closest to ribbon cable - Pin 1 is lowest - 10 Pin Molex PCB Headers - .156")
      1. Up' Joystick - (ORG-WHT) - PIA Pin 10
      2. NC (No Connection)
      3. NC
      4. NC
      5. NC
      6. Key - Pin Removed
      7. NC
      8. NC
      9. NC
      10. Ground - (ORG-BLK) - Common to all switches and joystick
    • Cocktail
      • 3J2 Connector (Upper - Furthest from ribbon cable - Pin 1 is lowest - 10 Pin Molex PCB Headers - .156")
      1. 'Fire' Button (P1) - (ORG-BRN) - PIA Pin 2
      2. 'Thrust' Button (P1) - (ORG-RED) - PIA Pin 3
      3. 'Smart Bomb' Button (P1) - (ORG) - PIA Pin 4
      4. 'Hyperspace' Button (P1) - (ORG-YEL) - PIA Pin 5
      5. '2-Player Start' Button (P1) - (ORG-GRN) - PIA Pin 6
      6. '1-Player Start' Button (P1) - (ORG-BLU) - PIA Pin 7
      7. 'Reverse' Button (P1) - (ORG-VIO) - PIA Pin 8
      8. 'UP' Joystick (P1) - (ORG-GRY) - PIA Pin 9
      9. Key (Pin Removed)
      10. Ground - (RED-BLK) - Common to all P2 Controls)
      • 3J3 Connector (Lower closest to ribbon cable - Pin 1 is lowest - 10 Pin Molex PCB Headers - .156")
      1. Down' Joystick (P1)- (ORG-WHT) - PIA Pin 10
      2. 'Up' Joystick (P2) - (RED-BRN)
      3. 'Thrust' Button (P2) - (RED)
      4. 'Smart Bomb' Button (P2) - (RED-ORG)
      5. 'Hyperspace' Button (P2) - (RED-YEL)
      6. Key - Pin Removed
      7. 'Reverse' Button (P2) - (RED-VIO)
      8. 'Fire' Button (P2) - (RED-GRY)
      9. 'Down' Joystick (P2) - (RED-WHT)
      10. Ground - (ORG-BLK) - (Common to all P1 Controls)
  • Ribbon Cable - Pinout
    1. D4 - PIA Pin 29
    2. NMI(NOT) - PIA No Connection
    3. D7 - PIA Pin 26
    4. FIRQ(NOT) - PIA No Connection
    5. D6 - PIA Pin 27
    6. RW (Read/Write) - PIA Pin 21
    7. D5 - PIA Pin 28
    8. Reset(NOT) - PIA Pin 34
    9. D2 - PIA Pin 31
    10. +5vdc (Power for board) - PIA Pin 20
    11. D1 - PIA Pin 32
    12. D0 - PIA Pin 33
    13. D3 - PIA Pin 30
    14. E(Enable) - PIA Pin 25
    15. PIA(NOT) - PIA Pin 23 via IC4(14049 Hex Inverter Pin 11 to 12)
    16. Ground - PIA Pin 6
    17. A0 - PIA Pin 36
    18. A1 - PIA Pin 35
    19. A2 - PIA Pin 24
    20. A3 - PIA Pin 22 via IC4(14049 Hex Inverter - Pin 9 to 10)

Software

High Score Table Initials Decoded:

DRJ – Eugene Jarvis. Designer, programmer.

SAM – Sam Dicker. Programmer.

LED – Larry DeMar. Programmer.

PGD – Paul Dussault. Programmer.

CRB – Chuck Bleich. Hardware engineering.

MRS – Mike Stroll. Head of Engineering at Williams.

SSR – Steve Ritchie. An engineer at Williams primarily involved in pinball, did not work directly on Defender.

TMH – Tom Hart. Hardware engineer.

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